What do you wear to chez panisse

After that couple, it was practically all people we knew, a real Berkeley crowd. There was Phil Wood, a local publisher; the rock critic Greil Marcus and his wife, Jenny; Danny and Hilary Goldstine, two sex therapists in Berkeley; the teacher Eleanor Bertino and her date, Ronnie Davis, who was the head of the San Francisco Mime Troupe; the costume designer Jacqui West, wearing a beautiful emerald-green vintage Chinese dress, with her husband, Skip; a little group of letterpress printers, like Bill Buckman and Greg Robb, who were from Saint Hieronymus Press; my mother and my sister Laura, who was seven months pregnant.

Huey Newton, the head of the Black Panthers, had called Tom and asked him to find a cameraman to film the funeral; Tom and his cameramen had been the only film crew allowed in the church. The whole night was out of control. And thank God she did! I needed everyone who was in the dining room that night, this motley group of people that ended up working together.

They were all charismatic, and they were all just trying their best to make people happy. That night—and every night thereafter—our job was to convince people that they were going to really, really like the food we were serving, because there was only the one option on the menu. And I was very good at convincing people, I was.

Brigitte Segal—an actual French person in the dining room! Sharon was just utterly charming, winning people over. Our waiters did a lot more than most: they were cutting the bread, tossing the salad, even stepping in to cook the tarts when needed. And that, of course, made it even more difficult to serve everyone in a timely fashion. By signing up, you agree to our Terms of Use and acknowledge the data practices in our Privacy Policy.

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